How to cite:
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara. (2022).
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty
from Sabang to Merauke”. Journal Eduvest. Vol 2(5): 987-1.000
E-ISSN:
2775-3727
Published by:
https://greenpublisher.id/
Eduvest – Journal of Universal Studies
Volume 2 Number 5, May, 2022
p- ISSN 2775-3735- e-ISSN 2775-3727
ANALYSIS OF SYMBOLS IN CAMPAIGN WOMEN
ILLUSTRATION OF “THE BEAUTY FROM SABANG TO
MERAUKE”
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani
1
, Hanisa Hasan
2
, Renita Azzhara
3
1,3
Mercu Buana University, Indonesia,
2
Universiti Malaysia Kelantan, Malaysia
Email: [email protected], hanis[email protected],
[email protected]
ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT
Received:
April, 26
th
2022
Revised:
May, 14
th
2022
Approved:
May, 16
th
2022
The beauty of women who are very diverse is not limited to physical
beauty, but there are many points of view that can be seen;
therefore, women are the main target audience in the campaign.
The trend of women's beauty is generally much influenced by the
socio-cultural background of a society. As in the work of designer
Nadya Noor who collaborated with Base, a beauty product
company, by creating an illustration applied for campaign on
clothing about beauty standardization, this work was inspired by the
unique shapes of the big islands in Indonesia, as well as the diversity
of women in Indonesia who very diverse. The research method using
qualitative methods is to analyze the illustrations on clothes with the
delivery of messages in the design. Through this work, the researcher
examines the visual elements of fashion illustrations in campaigns
with the messages conveyed through visuals in campaigns related to
illustrations, colors, layouts, with data collection techniques through
library research, documentation and interviews. The illustration can
be symbols for Indonesian representation from all rases in Indonesia.
The current study also would collaborate with international partner
from School of Creative of Technology and Heritage Universiti
Malaysia Kelantan. The expertise of the international partner
regarding design creative visual issues would be beneficial to
conduct the current study. More importantly, such expertise is
required within the field of Communication Technology and Creative
Industry contribute significantly within the literature, and to
strengthen the international exposure of the current study. The
research team from UMB would conduct the literature review, data
collection, and data analysis. Meanwhile, the international partner
from School of Creative of Technology and Heritage UMK would
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
Merauke” 988
conduct the literature review, mainly on the creative industry
construct. Finally, the output of this research is to publish the
research result on International Journal of Art and Design Education,
which is a indexed international journal.
KEYWORDS
Illustration, Visual elements, Indonesian women,
Representation
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons
Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International
INTRODUCTION
In Indonesia, the standard of beauty in the social environment to friendship, is now
being judged by physical characteristics. Even in the development of increasingly modern
technology, now many women do everything to beautify themselves, by changing their
physical appearance such as doing diet programs, plastic surgery, white injections, fillers.
A person's desire to be beautiful like what people say can lead to obsession. It can be
considered dangerous if the obsession is not fulfilled, this can lead to bad things that are
not wanted to happen. Why is beauty only seen from the physical appearance, it is not
uncommon for women to use public figures as role models in appearance, there are even
some jobs that impose requirements on beauty standards.
In the journal entitled "Skin Color Stigma Resistance Against Women's Beauty
Standards Through Advertising" mentions information from a well-known beauty clinic in
Indonesia, namely that ZAP Clinic conducted an online study which distributed 17,889
Indonesian women as respondents. The survey was conducted in 2020 and the survey
results show that around 73.1 percent of Indonesian women think that beauty is someone
who has clean, white, and glowing skin (Calefato, 2021)
Beauty cannot be judged from one point of view, but true beauty is being the best
version of yourself, one of which is by radiating your inner beauty. The definition of beauty
is a feeling that arises in the perception of each individual. Therefore, beauty is defined by
our complete self-acceptance. That man was created with perfect proportions. We need to
change the mindset about the standard of beauty in ourselves is the main thing that needs
to be worked on. That way, we will feel satisfied with ourselves, both physically, mentally,
and spiritually.
The media used in delivering this campaign is fashion media, namely clothing that
is promoted through social media in the form of advertisements. However, this campaign
does not rely on advertising content alone, but product demonstrations, word of mouth in
a more creative and innovative way. Because to achieve the objectives of a campaign,
effective and efficient marketing techniques are needed, one of which is in the fashion
sector.
Fashion becomes non-verbal symbols to be conveyed by the wearer, fashion and
clothing are forms of non-verbal communication because they do not use spoken or written
words (Barnard in (Trisnawati, 2016)). Fashion is a trend that is often combined with
technological sophistication today. Designs can be made through digital media such as:
computers, mobile phones, laptops and other supporting technology tools, in making
designs that will be applied and then printing them on the desired media. In a fashion, there
are values that want to be promoted or communicated through what is displayed. Fashion
is also used as a means of communication and conveys identity (Koller, 2008; Rachman,
Hamiru, Umanailo, Yulismayanti, & Harziko, 2019). In the early 90's there was the
discovery of a computer technology that led to the birth of illustration in digital form. This
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is a combination of science and technology that produces perfect works of art as a new art
form. In the work made, it will refer more to a fashion illustration design as a
communication medium for beauty standards campaigns that occur in Indonesia. In various
uses of color, the existing designs in fashion such as the application of illustration designs
that can describe the issue with the theme to be raised. Besides being unique, this can make
a campaign different from before. One of the functions of illustration, among others, can
convey opinions or views on an issue, issue or theme raised. And finally, fashion can be a
campaign tool by using illustrations as they function. The media together with the beauty
industry have established beauty standards, which in turn have changed the perception of
Indonesian people about the concept of beauty.
Figure I.1 “The Beauty from Sabang To Marauke” (2020).
Source: https://modest.id/news/mengenal-produk-perawatan-kulit-personalisasi-
dari-base
RESEARCH METHOD
This study uses a qualitative research type, the authors choose a qualitative method
because the results achieved in the form of descriptive data and symbol representation.
Descriptive qualitative is describing the object to be studied through the collected data. The
descriptive method was chosen because the research carried out was related to ongoing and
current events with the current conditions, the method of collecting data was literature study
by analyzing and observing how the application of visual elements through illustrations
was applied to clothing with the theme "The Beauty From Sabang to Merauke” by Nadya
Noor, as well as documenting visual elements in illustrations and conducting interviews
with designers regarding visual elements in illustration works. The analysis technique used
is content analysis technique, with the analysis technique by observing the visual elements
applied to the illustration.
Literature study conducted by the author is to obtain secondary data in strengthening
the research. Literature studies are obtained from books, official journal articles related to
research. The method is done by collecting related pictures as real evidence in conducting
research. The results of the documents that will be collected are in the form of documents
related to the research process carried out. In this study, conducted interviews aimed at
Nadya Noor as a designer who makes illustrations in the campaign "The Beauty from
Sabang To Merauke". This interview was conducted by discussing the details of the visual
elements in the illustrations.
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
Merauke” 990
The collected data would be analyzed with theory of elements visual and
representation theory from (Hall, 1997). Base is a beauty company that created an
illustration entitled "The Beauty from Sabang To Merauke" with the delivery media
through clothing (t-shirts). This work was created in 2020 to commemorate Indonesia's
independence-day, but Base raised a different theme, namely to invite Indonesian women
to voice independence about the meaning of beauty. The message from the theme that is
taken and poured into this illustration is a Movement to break free. Symbols and meanings
in illustration will be analysis to represent women in Indonesia from campaign illustration
“The Beauty from Sabang To Merauke.
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
Base is a beauty company that created an illustration for campaign entitled "The
Beauty From Sabang To Merauke" with the delivery media through clothing (t-shirts). This
work was created in 2020 to commemorate Indonesia's Independence Day, but Base raised
a different theme, namely to invite Indonesian women to voice independence about the
meaning of beauty. The message from the theme that is taken and poured into this
illustration is a movement to free oneself from the standardization of beauty that is rife in
the community. With the campaign tagline #beBASEkspresi, Indonesian women are
invited to voice their freedom from ideal beauty standards and voice comfort with the
uniqueness of each one. The illustrations contained in this media campaign, show the
beauty and uniqueness of Indonesian women who are unique from various regions.
Figure 1. Illustration in the campaign "The Beauty From Sabang To Merauke" (2020), (Source:
Base.co.id
The results of the data from the Base.co.id web illustration were made by cooperating
with Nadya Noor who is an Illustrator and also a Graphic Designer on one of the online
media portals. The message in this illustration carries the theme “THE BEAUTY FROM
SABANG TO MERAUKE” is an illustration created to celebrate and promote the
“beautiful” of the diversity of uniqueness and beauty of Indonesian women, using various
colors. Base chose several women to represent the islands in Indonesia, including: Sumatra,
Kalimantan, Java, Maluku, Bali, Papua to represent women in Indonesia in terms of
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characteristics and culture. In examining the illustrations in this study, the authors classify
them into ethnicity and race because they are included in the depiction of the island.
According to Bruce J. Cohen, race is a category of individuals who have inherited certain
physical and biological characteristics in common.
“Then it is added with an introduction through clothes and accessories that become the
cultural identity of the island, illustrated through a collage composition which is the
illustration style of the designer who made this campaign” (Noor, Is the illustration style
applied in the work, 2021).
Figure 2. Bentuk Kepulauan di indonesia (2021) (Sumber : Tribunjogja.com)
Figure 3. Illustration sketch by Nadya Noor (2021) (Source:
https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
Technological developments that are increasingly sophisticated and growing,
illustration sketches are made manually which are then converted into digital form. From
the sketch, there is an incorporation of visual elements such as points, lines, fields, spaces,
colors, textures into a single unit in the illustration which has a message on the campaign
that you want to convey to the audience. In the results of the interview, Nadya Noor as
the designer who made this illustration said that in making illustrations using
deconstruction techniques, where this technique is a method of reading text by sorting the
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
Merauke” 992
shapes of the large islands in Indonesia. Some shapes coexist with women with ethnic
and racial identities, coupled with cultural characteristics that reflect the big island. The
whole illustration is a depiction of Indonesian women with the differences they have in
each form. In this analysis section, the researcher will discuss the application of visual
elements that are applied to the illustration of the campaign "The Beauty from Sabang To
Merauke" based on the visual communication design point of view including illustrations,
colors, and layouts. Here's the explanation:
Figure 6. Illustration of a campaign by Nadya Noor (Source: https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
Data and Illustration Discussion
Sumatra’s Woman
Figure 7. Illustration of a campaign by Nadya Noor (Source: https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
The picture above represents the western island in Indonesia, namely Sumatra.
Quoted on Kompas.com where Sumatra belongs to the Malayan-Mongoloid race. This sub
race is spread in various regions in Indonesia, especially in the western and southern parts
such as Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Bali, and Nusa Tenggara. In a book entitled
"Encyclopedia of Ethnic Nations in Indonesia" explains that in general the Malays who
occupy this island have wide-eyed to slightly slanted characteristics (Hidayah, 2015). At
the bottom of the face illustration there is an ornament of necklace accessories originating
from Minang by forming a sickle-shaped buffalo horn.
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"The illustration of a Sumatran woman is depicted as if it is divided into two, on the
left side with the face of a woman wearing a hijab and on the right a cloud shape depicting
the island of Sumatra. This hijabi woman represents Acehnese women and also several
provinces in Sumatra which are famous for the number of women who wear the hijab for
Muslim women” (Noor, Why is the illustration of Sumatran women divided in half, 2021)
Quoted from Kompas.com, one of the provinces in Sumatra, namely, Aceh is known
as the Veranda of Mecca which was the first area for the entry of Islam into Indonesian
territory, besides that it was also the place where the first Islamic empires were founded,
namely Peureulak and Pasai. The influence of religion and Islamic culture is so great in
people's lives. From the shape of the cloud that describes the island of Sumatra, it
symbolizes that Sumatra is famous for its hills and mountains that stretch along the island.
Javanese’s Woman
Figure 8. Illustration of a campaign by Nadya Noor (Source:
https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
As mention as Kompas.com, Java belongs to the Mongoloid race where the
characteristics of straight black hair depict Javanese women, the eyelids have plica
marginalis (small folds) so that the eyes look small / slanted (Lazi, Efendi, & Purwandari,
2017). In the illustration, the Javanese woman is symbolized through the kebaya worn. This
kebaya is made of striated fabric with a cowl motif of Urang. The meaning of Lurik is a
striped cloth. Quoted from coverage 6.com, the meaning of the striated cloth with the Sapit
Urang motif is the cloth that is usually used by the soldiers of the palace, which has a
symbol of a war strategy. Like shrimp claws, the enemy is surrounded from the left and
right, then the attack power lies in the middle of the area.
Kalimantan’s Woman
Figure 9. Illustration of a campaign by Nadya Noor
(Source:https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
The picture of the visual elements displayed; this illustration shows a Kalimantan
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
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woman. Quoted on Kompas.com, Kalimantan belongs to the Proto-Malay or Old Malay
race. The Proto-Malay race in history belongs to the Mongoloid race. Hundreds of tribes
spread across Indonesia, one of which is on the island of Kalimantan, namely the Dayak
Tribe, which is a native tribe originating from Kalimantan. Kalimantan itself is divided into
West Kalimantan, East Kalimantan, Central Kalimantan, North Kalimantan and South
Kalimantan. The characteristics of Proto-Malay have straight hair, brown skin (Rahardjo,
Hagijanto, & Maer, 2016)
"However, in this illustration, it does not display the physical characteristics of the
Proto-Malay race, but is symbolized through the accessories of the ruai bird hat as a
characteristic accessory of the island of Borneo" (Noor, Are there physical characteristics
that represent Kalimantan women, 2021).
Quoted from detik.com the ruai bird hat is also a symbol used among kings because
this hat in ancient times was not allowed to be worn by ordinary people. This hat is made
of ruai bird feathers and is commonly used in the greatness of the island of Borneo.
Bali’s Woman
Figure 10. Illustration of a campaign by Nadya Noor (Source:
https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
The illustration above represents the island of Bali from the layout of the image
which is located between the island of Java and the island of Lombok. Quoted in
Kompas.com Bali belongs to the Deutro Malay race or young Malay, with straight hair
characteristics.
“Straight hair with long flowing down lengths that are tied and tucked in with
Cambodian flowers as a characteristic of the island of Bali” (Noor, Is a characteristic that
represents Balinese women, 2021).
The frangipani flower or Japanese flower has two roles, namely as a symbol of Lord
Shiva and as a means of prayer, when praying flowers are placed on the ends of the two
palms which are covered, then after finishing worshiping, the flowers are directed to the
top of the head or tucked in the ears (Soedarmadji, Hartono, & Putra, 2019). From this
characteristic, it is the depiction of Balinese women, as well as the layout of the image
which is located between the islands of Java and Lombok.
Maluku’s Woman
Figure 11. Illustration depicting women on the island of Maluku (Source:
https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
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The illustration above represents a woman who comes from the island of Maluku.
Quoted on Kompas.com the residents of this island belong to the Melanesoid race which is
similar to the characteristics of the residents on the island of Papua. In the journal entitled
"Media Racialism: A Critical Study of Mass Media in Indonesia" states that the Melanesoid
race has physical characteristics with dark skin color, has curly hair characteristics
(Laksono, 2017). However, the shape of the hair in the illustration is made straight so that
the composition of the illustration is not too full.
"From the dominant purple color in the illustration, it is described as darker than
blue, this represents the skin color of eastern women who have dark skin" (Noor, Why the
dominant purple color appears in the illustration, 2021).
From the illustration of flora which is mostly applied to Moluccan women, it
symbolizes that Maluku Island is famous for its richness of spices which is represented
through the plants in the illustration. This symbol is emphasized from the color purple
which has the meaning of luxury, power and wealth.
Papua’s Woman
Figure 12. Illustration depicting women on Papua Island (Source:
https://instagram.com/itsmybase)
The picture above represents the easternmost region of Indonesia, namely the island
of Papua. As stated in the journal entitled "Media Racialism: A Critical Study of Mass
Media in Indonesia" it is stated that the Melanesoid race has physical characteristics with
dark skin color, has curly hair characteristics (Laksono, 2017)
“The illustration is depicted with wavy hair that is reinforced with ornamental lines
on the hair. The clothing worn to cover the upper part of a woman's body is called a tassel
skirt which is worn in traditional Papuan ceremonial activities” (Noor, What are the
characteristics that represent Papuan women, 2021).
These clothes are made of natural materials which are represented by yellow color
made from dried sago or palm fiber. The triangular shape describes the accessories on the
head in the form of a crown with the name Tassel Head. The head tassel is generally made
of rabbit fur and cassowary feathers, which are commonly used at traditional events and as
accessories when performing Papuan dances. A more contrasting color in this illustration
is red which represents one of the Melanesoid Races that has a dark skin tone.
"From the illustration that represents the island of Papua, there are triangular shapes
depicting the sun element which is shaped into a crown which symbolizes that an honorable
woman is like a queen and from the application of the red color which is dominant in the
illustration because the character of Papuan women is very clear visually" (Noor, Apa
meaning of the triangular shape applied to the head of the illustration, 2021).
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
Merauke” 996
Data and Color Discussion
Color is a very important element because color can be a tool for expression. The
colors used in the application of the illustrations from the “The Beauty from Sabang To
Merauke” campaign is very diverse. In the discussion, color is taken from the dominant
color applied in every illustration related to culture and the meaning of color.
Table 7. Discussion of Colors in Illustrations
No
Colour
1.
In the illustration, the most dominant color is
pink which symbolizes love, affection and
attention. According to (Rustan, 2019) in his
book entitled: Color. This color is a
combination of red and white containing the
meaning of both, namely the desire and
power of red which is softened by the purity
of white.
2.
In the illustration on the side, the dominant
color is green. According to color theory,
green is associated with growth, joy and
hope. The color green as a symbol of life
expectancy means that we must protect
nature and live in harmony with nature. In
the Yogyakarta palace, it means nobility
which is always hope (Syarif.A, 2018).
3.
The color that is applied to the face and then
on the head accessories he wears, the lines on
the hair are dominated by the color Green. In
color theory, green gives the impression of
soothing the eyes, calming and giving a
relaxing effect, also related to this island
which is one of the islands famous for its vast
and dense forests.
4.
In the illustration beside some colors are
applied. From the image that represents the
illustration of a Balinese woman, yellow is
the color of the hair. In color theory, yellow
has the impression of being cheerful,
enthusiastic, creative and free. In Balinese
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culture, the color yellow has the meaning of
noble or noble values.
5.
On the island of Maluku, the dominant color
in the illustration is purple. Purple is often
associated with luxury, power and wealth
where Maluku is known to be rich in spices.
This purple color is the same as a plant
originating from the island of Maluku,
namely Orchid larat or its scientific name is
Dendrobium phalaenopsis where this plant is
included in a protected rare plant.
6.
The illustration on the side is identical with
the red color to give the impression that one
of the characteristics of the Papuan people is
that they have a slightly darker skin type. The
motifs on batik from Papua often display
bright colors such as red which is believed by
the Papuan people to symbolize courage.
Overall, the colors in the illustration use bright colors that can evoke a sense of joy
and attract the eye's attention. Color repetition is carried out on each element, with
ornaments as decorative in the illustration (Ball & Smith, 1992; Mirzoeff, 1999). "The
choice of colors is adjusted to the target audience in the campaign, namely Indonesian
women with an age range of 18 to 35 years and these colors are also a color palette from
Base which is the beauty company that made this campaign" (Noor, Target audience for
this campaign is, 2021). The application of color to different illustrations adds to the
diversity of each individual which further emphasizes his representation and so that the
message in this campaign can be conveyed.
Data and Layout Discussion
Ariani Kusumo Wardhani, Hanisa Hasan, Renita Azzhara
Analysis of Symbols in Campaign Women Illustration of “The Beauty from Sabang to
Merauke” 998
Figure 19. Illustration in the campaign “The Beauty From Sabang To Merauke” (2020),
(Source: Base.co.id)
In this illustration of The Beauty from Sabang To Merauke, it can be seen from:
1. Sequence is seen to sort the location of the islands in Indonesia from the west to the
east which is included in the concept of making illustrations in representing that
"beautiful" Indonesian women are very diverse.
2. Emphasis is given to ornaments or decorative lines and island characteristics based on
race which gives the impression of a characteristic of each island form and gives
contrasting and different colors to elements from one another.
3. The balance used in this illustration is an asymmetrical balance where the size of the
shape of each illustration is different. The placement of each element gives a balanced
impression.
4. The unity seen in the illustration is found in the visual elements that are arranged in
such a way that they are combined into a single unit that forms the archipelago in
Indonesia.
5. The principles described in the discussion above support each other, including:
Sequence, Emphasis, Balance, and Unity, as the layout of the illustration design
elements on clothing. Making it easier for the audience to understand the intent in
accordance with the message in the campaign through illustrations that show
differences through the characteristics of each island in Indonesia.
Based on the discussion of visual elements above, the illustration from The Beauty
From Sabang to Merauke campaign is one of the symbolic representations of Indonesian
women formed through visual elements seen through representations depicted from the
distribution of ethnicities and races in Indonesia, then strengthened again with distinctive
characteristics. Culture seen from traditional clothes, accessories that represent each island
and seen from the visual element, namely the dominant color appears in the illustration,
because color is a communication in representing the diversity of Indonesian women
(Danesi, 2017; Vilnai-Yavetz & Tifferet, 2015). The layout arrangement in making
illustrations uses deconstruction techniques, where this technique is a method of reading
text by sorting the shape of the large islands in Indonesia, so as to describe the diversity of
Indonesian women.
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CONCLUSION
The results of this study for combining visual elements such as: points, lines, fields,
space, color, texture into a single unit that forms an illustration by having a message
conveyed, namely about the differences in women on every island in Indonesia. Therefore,
the author needs an analysis of the characteristics seen from the distribution of ethnicity
and race to cover one island in Indonesia. However, from the data obtained regarding their
physical characteristics, not all of them are correct, because not all women have the same
characteristics as those mentioned in the analysis. In each island there are many tribes,
provinces, regions which certainly have different characteristics. As for what symbolizes
women in a visual form, it can be seen through the representations depicted from various
ethnicities and races in Indonesia, clothing and accessories that are characteristic of the
culture on each island, as well as colors and layouts that convey the message of the diversity
of each island. Color acts as a communication tool in the representation of the diversity of
Indonesian women in illustrations through visual elements, where color can be tied to
religion, culture, social and politics.
Based on the analysis that has been done using the theory of illustration, color, and
layout, basically women are the same, each has gifts with uniqueness, because beauty is
very diverse. Being beautiful is not about perfection in the physical but beautiful is what is
inside each one. The analysis of Nadya Noor's work on illustration on clothes in a beauty
standard campaign, it can be a recommendation in conveying messages in campaigns using
illustration media. So, the researcher suggests by loading images or visual elements that
are easy to understand according to the problem raised so that the message in the work can
be conveyed properly. So, for the results of further research, the researcher hopes that there
will be similar research to get better results to obtain new knowledge from data analysis
and even better results.
In the results of research that has been done as a reference in the design of the final
project. In Nadya Noor's work, the scope and issues raised will be applied to the final
project. In accordance with what was discussed in the campaign which analyzed the
elements in the illustrations, colors, layouts, which were adjusted to the design principles
with the message to be conveyed in the campaign.
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